The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Variety
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a barrier on